Powerful and textured, velvety and packed with black fruits on the attack. This was the start of serious changes in Quinault, bought in 2008 by Bernard Arnault and Albert Frère, but this is still in the old school mould, and it's rather fascinating to be reminded of how different its personality was at the time. It is sexy and unabashed and gives clear chocolate and damson puree, ready for pleasure. Will make an impact when put on a table with friends but it is far away from how good it is today.